Equator Crossing

The crossing from Panama to the Galapagos takes you across the equator and through what is called the doldrums. This is an area of very calm seas, low winds, and frustration for sailors as they end up motoring most of the way. We had a great first day of sailing and last day and 3 days of motoring in the middle. The chart above shows a halfway point where we stopped the boat, threw a safety line off the back, and went for a swim in 3,500 feet of water. (For the safety-conscious, yes we always left one person on board.)

We had a visitor come to greet us and live on our canvas Bimini for a couple of days. How this dove got 3 days off shore is amazing. I guess it just needed a break. We also acquired the largest and loudest cricket in the universe. I think it was coming through the jungles of Panama. Luckily it was on the outside of the boat, If Harry hadn’t found it and killed it before we got to the Galapagos, they wouldn’t have let us into the country.

There is a time-honored tradition for sailors crossing the equator for the first time. People who have crossed the equator before are known as shellbacks. People who haven’t crossed are called pollywogs. The ceremony involves Neptune visiting, putting the pollywogs on trial, having them confess their sailing sins, and hopefully, after the initiation ceremony becoming shellbacks. For Mike, Cullen, Issy, and myself, It was quite the day as you will see from the scenes below.

Neptune had prepared a special soup of fruit and vegetable table scraps, water, yeast, and 4 other secret ingredients. He then left the bucket in the dingy where it fermented at 100 degrees. When our ceremony was over everyone went straight over the side into the ocean to wash off the carnage and even though we are a dry boat (no drinking on passages) we did have a ceremonial shot of rum for all and one additional over the side for Neptune and the sea.

We were warned before coming to the Galapagos that if you are not diligent with your fenders that you will have a number of visitors sleeping and barking on your transom. While they are cute, the sea lions have been even known to come up the stairs into your cockpit and then you have a wee problem. We saw first-hand evidence upon our arrival and luckily have just been able to observe and swim with the seals and sea lions instead of having them over for cocktails.

After 5 days at sea, Issy was nice enough to make us a full proper breakfast the morning of our arrival. The practice sails are over. We have now had 3 passages of 3, 4, and 5 days, the latter was solo watches which means 2 hours on and 8 hours off, which Cullen really enjoyed. We all did. Our next passage will be the longest of the rally from here to the Marquesas, 3,300 miles and 16-21 days. However, we have 2 wonderful weeks in the Galapagos and are really excited about our families and friends coming to visit for a week on a 16 passenger expedition boat. We will send a Galapagos blog before we depart for the Marquesas.